Skin Care Routine
We are fully concerned with the routines of health care and aesthetics of the skin; daily rites in the unequal battle against time.
SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
We will try to simplify to the maximum the universe of the products of care of the skin. Although there are multiple modifications for each, the three basic groups of products for daily use for the skin are these two:A- Cleaners
They are products designed to remove fat from the skin, desquamated cells, environmental dirt and microorganisms.It must be said that water is itself a "product" of care (it can be considered a cosmeceutical) and has a great influence on the structure and function of the epidermis. Its use must be careful.
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Cleaning products should leave the intercellular lipid barrier intact and not excessively alkalize the skin. The pH of the skin is 5.4 and the soaps increase it: they alkalize the skin.
Although it is evident that the invention of soap is one of the greatest advances for human health, the greater or lesser frequency of its use can cause cutaneous problems.
The industry has sought to get a type of cleaning product for every need, but basically we can divide the cleaners into:
Soaps: salt of fatty acids with a pH of 9 to 10
Synthetic detergents (Syndets): Beauty cleansers or for skin with different problems. They contain less than 10% soap. pH of 5.5 to 7
Cleaners with alkaline soap to which surface active agents (microbicides) are added.
Non-foaming products With little or no detergent, it is intended to minimize the alteration of the skin barrier produced by soap (which can be measured in the laboratory as transepidermal water loss). They can use oily (cleansing milk) or alcoholic (tonics) solvents.
Micellar waters are also not sparkling.
Many cleaning products try to look for a special feature, by means of additives: fragrances, foaming agents and bactericides. There are body cleansers with lipophilic and hydrophilic ingredients, cleansers without lipids and no foaming, others with elements that intend to exfoliate on skins.
B- Moisturizers
Moisturizing is an equivocal term, because these products do not introduce water to the skin, but slow its loss. They aim to help maintain the optimal water content in the stratum corneum (10 to 30%).The two ways to achieve skin hydration are:
Occlusive hydration, which prevents the loss of water by evaporation into the environment through a fatty substance applied to the skin.
Moisturizers: substances that attract moisture (mainly from the dermis): glycerin, sodium lactate, urea, propylene glycol, sorbitol, hyaluronic acid ...)
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Both procedures are usually associated. The processes that are intended to rehydrate the skin are: promote the repair of the skin barrier, modify the hydration coefficient on the surface, promote the dermo-epidermal moisture diffusion and the synthesis of intercellular lipids.
It is best to choose the most suitable moisturizer for each type of skin.
It exceeds the purpose of this article to expand on the ingredients against aging that may contain moisturizers, serum and other products.
The astringent or tonic products are used to correct the defects of the cleaner or to improve the effect of the moisturizer and can be used after the cleaner and before the moisturizer. We do not include them in a basic routine.
TIPS FOR A ROUTINE OF CARE OF THE SKIN
We are not going to recommend a complicated routine of daily care in multiple steps. Here we explain the most basic, but many cases of skin with some pathology will have special needs. Thus, although there will be people who need to modify this scheme, our simplest daily plan includes only three activities on the skin. And it is precisely the three types of products exposed in the previous section (A, B and C) that you will need for these three essential activities: clean the skin, moisturize it and protect it from solar radiation.
First: Cleaning
For many people it may be appropriate to wash the face twice a day (night time will be essential if you have worn makeup). But there are types of skin, such as very dry or sensitive skin, for those who wash only once is enough (also better at night).Face cleaners should be gentle, with little detergent; For the body, soaps can be used. Some very oily skin may require cleansers that eliminate excess desquamation, but repeated exfoliation is a care that exceeds the basic cleaning activity and will not be discussed here.
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Second: Hydration
The moisturizer will adapt to each type of skin. It may be sufficient to apply it twice a day, and in many cases it will serve the same product for both times.There are moisturizing products that include a protection factor, although it is usually weak (15 to 20), this protection can be enough for winter.
The skin with some pathology will require modifying the hydration care. In general, it is prudent to use very few products.
But it is convenient to moderate expectations about what moisturizing products can produce. And hydration should be particularized for each age group. On the one hand very young people do not usually require hydration on the face, and on the other hand, the skin of the elderly should not expect any cream to make disappear signs such as wrinkles. Flaccidity, wrinkles or blemishes will require aesthetic dermatological treatments or techniques.
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